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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • I’ve been happy with the tp link TV-IP324PI, it’s a Poe bullet cam with a simple web interface (I don’t think it requires JS, but at any rate you just need to log in once to set a password, make sure upnp is off, and adjust camera/encoding/fps/text overlay settings to your liking). There’s also the amcrest IP5M-B1186EW-28MM, another similar Poe bullet cam with night vision that works local only. I’ve used both for several years and I think they support onvif but I had no issues using the rtmp url with zoneminder










  • I would recommend getting a separate client radio device for several reasons:

    • You can position it better for reception
    • Get a device with directional antenna so you can point it at the best AP
    • You won’t use up 1 band of a dual-band router
    • You won’t be limited in your main router firmware choice to only those that support client mode on a radio

    Personally I would get a nanostation loco 5ac (non-loco is bigger and probably isnt needed) and flash openwrt on it (that will free any airmax radio from the proprietary airmax limitation), configure the 5GHz radio to client mode with the apartment wifi details, and put in the desired mac into the mac field if you need a specific mac besides the device default. Make sure the radio is set to wan zone so that forwarding works and plug the lan cable from the radio to the WAN of whatever nice router you have.

    I used to carry around a nanostation with this config set to xfinity access points with a small script that would pick a random MAC from a list I gathered from wardriving client MACs that I saw authenticated with xfinity hotspots. That way if I ever needed an ethernet connection for a non-wifi device I could just power up the radio and run the script to pick a new mac until I got one that was “remembered” in someone’s xfinity account.

    Edit: to clarify, I think the way I set it up was to run dhcp client on the radio’s uplink and then hand out IPs via dhcp server on the lan port, so I think you’d be triple natted, but since you would need to double nat anyway to get around the MAC authorization it probably isn’t hurting speeds any more than it already would be.








  • If you use the older Chromecast dongle that doesn’t have android TV and no remote (the circular ones) you should be able to use castblock to auto mute ads and automatically press the skip button as soon as it shows up. It also has sponsorblock support so it will auto skip sponsor segments too. You just have to run the program on the same network with flags specifying you want it to mute ads, skip ads, and give it the list of sponsorblock segment types to skip and it’ll auto detect any Chromecasts and do it’s auto skipping and muting magic


  • I think the best solution right now for older Chromecast (ones without a dedicated remote) is running castblock on a raspberry pi or something else attached to your network. It doesn’t block ads but it can automatically mute the chromecast volume when ads are playing, as well as automatically hit the skip button when it shows up (maybe like 5% of the time it misses both but still better than nothing). It also looks up sponsor segments from sponsorblock and detects when a sponsor is about to play and can skip those too. It auto detects all Chromecast on the network so all you have to do is run the program with the flags for what features you want enabled / what sponsorblock segments it should skip.

    If you have a Chromecast with Google TV (with like a remote control and apps) I’ve heard smarttube-next is a good alternative app with ad blocking.

    I’m not sure what works with TVs that have Chromecast built in, might also be smarttube-next. I only have the Chromecast ultra and the older standard Chromecast and castblock works great running on my pihole box