I can see your logic and i can see Fribbtastic’s objections. I am not sure immerse in a liquid a suction cup will be necessary. I would start out with a 20mm cube. A pure flat surface right in the middle of the filament where you’re going to get the most flex of the film.

I would sincerely consider giving your film 50% slack for eventual failure and loosening but your idea is sound. I do think commenter is right though that this would be something to redo on every single film replacement AND every single resin you use.

I’d genuinely be curious to see time saved VS used up to dial it in.

My personal hatred of Core XY not withstanding that sounds like an awesome idea. Belt printer? Maybe at a 45 degree slant to avoid support and overhang issues?

if the file is small enough you can throw it in tinkercad and merge it. Cura will let you print it as one file if you let it but you have to set it correctly.

You can’t slow down the head in specific spots but you can slow it down in general as well as setting a minimal layer time so that it pauses between layer and lets them cool.

Call me mister suspicious if you like but I have had this exact issue daily with Chrome since they started complaining about adblocking. And wouldn’t you know it, the moment any form of adblock is disabled it miraculously does not happen. I can also fix it by clearing my cache every day and restarting the browser. I would start with those steps.

Bit of both really. Ok, the bed tramming is normal, even GREAT printers need it done every few weeks or so. The physics and mechanical properties of how the bed is held down mean changes in temperatures and normal shifts even in an ACed house mean they loosen naturally a little every day and after a few weeks they will be bad enough someone who likes a really level bed will need to clear them again. After a few months any bed that isn’t welded down is going to need to be redone.

Z offset and bed auto level follow from that. You need to redo them when you do the tramming anyway.

I would say run your printer more often but that won’t fix it. You’re running against physics and nothing can stop that. Maybe you can store up prints for say 6 months and then do them all in a week or so and you only have to do this once?

Sorry about the late response, OK, brackets and cases for microcontrollers are actually great on a select mini. I agree with others that a Bambu would serve you great AND give you MUCH better finish etc… but the footprint of that thing is about twice that of the mini. I know of at least two prototype printers that are smaller BUT they are prototypes with all the faff that involves including troubleshooting them every time you move them.

Good luck.

How “not use it very often” are we talking about? The critical thing for any printer is first and foremost bed leveling. If you get something like an MP select mini The footprint is about 30cm^3. You can absolutely throw it in a box and just pull it out whenever BUT you will need about 30 minutes to relevel the bed just perfect and potentially run a test print. That said, this machine also only prints a 10cm^3 and it will handle PETG IF it’s been modded otherwise it’s PLA and that’s it.

Which segue nicely into my next question: What will you be printing? Models and minis? Functional parts? Random statues you find online of waifus? (Only slightly kidding)

This matters a LOT.

For the first: The mini will sorta work but not be great with details. Fort the second plan on a printer that can handle PETG at least. For the latter, you want to look into a resin printer. They WILL fit into a closet when emptied and cleaned BUT the cleaning process is both lengthy, tedious and potentially noxious and requires quite a bit of space so I didn’t even mention them in the first part.

The piece probably left the build plate and stuck to the nozzle, got pushed in and melted. OP got lucky and it didn’t hit anything hard and cause his leveller to break.

Primary: Artillery Sidewinder X1, absolutely stock except for parts that needed replacement but even those are just part swap, no upgrades or mods.

Secondary: MP Select mini Frame and some motors. The board is the motherboard form a Tronxy X5S. the bed is a manual replacement from an off brand and it has an off the shelf 12 V 300W PSU.

I will gladly open a new roll mid print and continue a print with an untested roll. I simply don’t print things that need that level of fiddling.

I personally hate it for how screamy everyone gets when they play it but there’s an stl for a portable secret hitler game.