Don’t be petulant
Don’t be petulant
So because you won’t understand, I can’t communicate?
Yes.
And you have no idea that you make no sense?
You have no idea that you are the one parroting an idiotic straw man argument, do you?
AKA a composting toilet.
Yes.
Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapistTrump is a rapist
Edit: WTF? But I’ll let it stand. LOL.
Yes.
Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapistTrump is a rapistTrump is a rapist
Yes.
Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist Trump is a rapist
It depends. Am I armed?
You mean grow? As in what do I personally do?
I plant it usually between Nov 1 and Dec 15 (I’m in zone 8a). Most people say 1-2 weeks after the first hard frost and for me that would be around Oct 15 - I usually go later only because I’m busy since our markets run until the end of Oct.
Just break up a bulb and plant each clove pointy end up about 1" deep and 4-6" apart in any direction in moderately fertile soil with good tilth (ie good drainage - not too heavy clay, ideally). I don’t grow this for market any more (weirdly, it was never high demand) and just put it in a raised bed. I leave the soil bare in winter to absorb heat and in my climate don’t worry about frost protection but if you are in a colder climate you should plant deeper - even 3-4" deep in zone 3 and maybe even mulch. But it’s very frost hardy.
I’ll typically weed a couple times before mulching. Once temps start to rise in spring I’ll cut fresh grass with a hand scythe and use that as mulch to reduce moisture loss and keep soil temps as cool as possible. Obviously this also helps keep weeds down - garlic doesn’t like competition. If you are growing hard-neck varieties, which you absolutely should, then cut the scapes before they get tough. Garlic scape pesto is the bomb - I make a huge batch and freeze it.
I’ll stop watering once I start to see bottom leaves browning (as temps rise the plants stop growing) and usually harvest once about 2/3 of the plant is brown - typically July for me. This varies a lot by conditions and variety - digging one up to see is a good idea. You can eat them “green” no problem.
I don’t like to cure in the soil and prefer to harvest and let them cure on a drying rack in a shaded but breezy place. Properly cured and stored even hard neck varieties typically last 8-9 months for me. I like to dehydrate some for garlic powder and will freeze in oil so I can make it to the next harvest.
I do occasionally buy new garlic to get additional varieties - Peaceful Valley in California is good and will have sales around mid-November, as is Maine Potato Lady which is cheaper and better quality but sells out fast. I have a lot of favorites but probably Georgian Fire is at the top of the list. Spanish Roja for salsa… Purple Glazer for roasting, Music for every day use.
You can certainly plant garlic you buy from a store and it’s way cheaper but it will almost always be softneck and usually “California Late White”, which I find very meh. You also run some risk of picking up something like white rot (Sclerotium Cepivorum) which can persist in your soil. But the good news is that even though seed garlic is expensive it can be a one-time purchase since you just replant every year.
And yet you have no idea what the comment meant, and so how could you know it’s “dumb”?
That seems pretty… dumb, TBH.
Why would you assume “he” as a default pronoun?
Ah, I wasn’t sure how to interpret “Yeah but no”.
I find garlic easier than scallions and yeah, scallions are quite easy.
Does it have to get that cold overnight, or during the day?
The way I interpret it is if you have around 40 days with temperatures of 40F or below you are good. I’ve also heard up to 50F is ok. And really that’s only in the first couple of months so they can bulb up. Also, they will stop growing once soil temps at around 1" reach about 80-90F depending on variety. I mulch with cut grass to keep the soil cooler.
I have certainly read people being very particular about it and even recommending refrigerating the bulbs before planting, but I’ve never worried about it too much and have always had good results, even planting quite late for my area. As is often the case advise is either very generalized or very specific to a variety and set of conditions. Give it a shot!
I too am VERY special.
Edit: But I AM DAMMIT!
Garlic is stupid easy to grow. It doesn’t require much space or particularly high fertility and watering is easy to manage since the roots are relatively deep and it benefits from mulch. The best part is you can get MANY really cool varieties, whereas it’s pretty much only one softneck variety in the store.
The main points are to plant early enough so it gets enough cool days (40 days below 40F is the rule of thumb but that’s probably too conservative), to weed enough to reduce competition, and to water appropriately.
Other than that they were in a cup at the kitchen window
Definitely not enough sun. They really want cooler temps but 6-7 hours of full sun per day. Windows are terrible for plants because the sun, annoyingly, moves.
Wait what? Are you literally saying that garlic is hard to grow? WHAAAT?
It is my understanding that trying to raise garlic from grocery store bought cloves are prone to die of disease.
Nah, you’re probably fine. But you will likely be limited to the Least Delightful Variety of garlic, also known as California Late White, a softneck variety chosen for it’s durability, shelf life, and ease of growing.
There are so many other really awesome varieties out there. And garlic is so easy to grow.
No