From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.
I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.
Dry and then store in a controlled environment. I’m using those bog standard cereal containers from Amazon (3,7-4l container should do for 1kg spools). Add some desiccant, spool rollers and a hygrometer and you have yourself a semi-permanent home for your spools. Mine show somewhere between 10% and 15% humidity, so that’s pretty good considering that previously just leaving a spool in open air for a single longer print caused it to soak enough moisture to ooze and string by the end of the print, and that’s in “only” over 40% humidity. So yeah, highly recommended.
Mind you that PICTRS__API_KEY
is the wrong variable, and should be PICTRS__SERVER__API_KEY
. I’ve noticed it when Lemmy Thumbnail Cleaner complained about the api key being incorrect. Follow the repo page and check if your variables are correct.
Two that I know of that made decent games is K-D Lab that made Perimeter and Vangers (both open sourced and recently remastered), and Nikita responsible for the Parkan series. They’re not by any means greatest hits but they’re unique and worth checking out.
EDIT: And oh, Pathologic by Ice-Pick Lodge too, but I haven’t played those. Those seem funky and definitely not for everyone.
EDIT2: There’s apparently a list of Russian made games on Wikipedia , good to know.
The model in question has metal screw bosses.
That’s pretty cool. I wish more devices had brass inserts. I kinda hate the idea of screwing into plastic. Anyway, do whatever you feel you need. I don’t think it’d get loose even with daily usage, but I might be wrong.
What does that solve? Isn’t the whole purpose of a threadlocker to keep the screw in place? I can imagine that plastics are soft enough that they keep the screws in place on their own. As far as I know, and from my own experience, there’s been no trouble with screws loosening over time in those consoles, so I don’t know how adding threadlocker would help.
Overtightening screws does that. Plus, transparent plastics tend to be more brittle, so you have to be more careful. Been re-shelling some gameboys and the exact issue cropped up with shells cracking at the screw holes. Guy I follow on youtube recommends screwing them all the way then loosening them a quarter of a turn. Might help lessen the stress.
If you’re running it in docker you can just check the logs, I do it like this: docker compose logs -f lemmy
, and see if you have requests from any instance in the log stream. For me it goes pretty fast, but you can always ctrl+c to exit and scroll up to see what you’ve missed. Might not be the most optimal way, but it works for me.
Had to replace my UPS battery just a few days ago after a power outage reminded me that a replacement was well overdue. I share your feeling, now I can sleep knowing a power blip won’t knock out my servers and mess up my data.
Yea, I had to make a crontab task that resets lemmy every day. Hope it gets fixed in the future but for now it sorta works.
This may help: Container compatibility. MKV files will be remuxed when played via WebUI. Try playing an MP4 file and see if it’s the same.
I’ve got a whole 0.5kg bag of coffee for that much in Germany, and that’ll last me almost a month (~25 cups). What’s so good about Starbucks that it costs as much per cup?
So, “flies” from The Invincible? Microbots that pretty much conquered a planet, making it impossible for all life to exist on the planet’s surface. There was no “obeying” them, only dying or leaving.
Dude that wrote that (in 1964 no less) must’ve been a time traveler. Computers back then barely started being miniaturized, there were no home PCs, no smartphones or actual nano tech to speak of. Only recently we’ve started building microbots and nano scale mechanisms.
That’s not gold, it’s just a heat sheet.
TBH as I see it, this could be a good thing, especially if those patches were go upstream. Lemmy could end up DOS hardened as fuck if this continues. Hopefully the attacker will eventually run out of attack vectors, although from what I’m seeing, this could take months, as it’s been happening for a long time already.
I did just that a while ago. Seeing on my server what you’ve been seeing in yours I’ve just turned it off for a day or so, and when I turned it on just to be sure that I have to scrap it and start again, it started working just fine. So, I’d say, let it be, let it rest, come back to it later. Or I dunno, maybe it was just a fluke.
Just MusicBrainz and a general music folder. I either use a SMB share or Navidrome to listen to my library, depending what’s most convenient. I’ve noticed that Lidarr generates huge traffic spikes when it fetches album info, rate limiting it on my Pi Hole, so I’ve stopped using it. I don’t like the idea of automating downloading music anyway, I prefer to listen to it first then download if I like it.
Since I’ve started automating stuff I’ve got myself an Acurite wireless fridge and freezer thermometer (initially found out about it on Reddit, before it all went to shit and all). It both has a nice magnetic display and it transmits in 433MHz band, so a SDR dongle plugged into my Home Assistant machine can receive the temp readouts. So far it didn’t prevent any disasters, but at least I know how hot it needs to get for the fridge to start having trouble keeping cool.
That’s PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.